For most dwelling owners, there may be nothing extra annoying than cracks or harm to their drywall. Use a utility knife to chop vertically along the drywall, connecting the highest and backside cuts from the hacksaw on the left and right sides. Drive a drywall screw 1 half inches above the popped nail head into the stud to reattach the drywall to the stud. (It is not vital to reinforce the horizontal edges of the substitute drywall.) Safe the 2x4s to the drywall with drywall screws (image four). Set the new drywall into the hole and safe to the 2x4s with screws.
Ensure that it’s the identical thickness as the drywall already present. Lower out a bit of broken drywall tape in an inside nook, then apply a mattress of drywall compound. Cut alongside the strains on the wall with a drywall knife. You probably have a complete house to restore, buy a 4.5-gal.
If you happen to’re actually involved about strength, use paper tape for all repairs. Outer drywall corners are strengthened with metal or plastic edging, known as nook bead. Simply adhere the patch to the wall and cover with drywall compound. Bigger holes in a wall require a patch product of drywall, which can be generally referred to as wall board or gypsum board.
Lower a piece of drywall right into a sq. a little bit greater than the opening. Sink the screw head slightly below the floor of the drywall so it can be lined with spackle. To feather the sting, increase stress and angle on the drywall knife as you reach the outer edges of the patch space to reduce, or skinny, the joint compound on the drywall.
Proceed slicing down the drywall adjacent to the studs till the whole part is removed. Unfold drywall compound over the patch, feathering out the edges. Cover the hole or dent with quick-drying spackle to carry the spackle level with the drywall floor and let it dry 24 hours – or the time recommended by the manufacturer’s instructions.